Tuesday, July 2, 2019

Rumpled Satin

I began this road trip in early June, visiting New Mexico then Colorado.  Here in Wyoming, three weeks later, I'm finally through the technical challenges of getting this blog moving.  So I'll be shuttling back and forth in time, weaving the journey together.

We had the folded layer cake of the first two posts, and now, as I sit on a promontory with my morning tea, these smoothly rolling hills and valleys remind me of rumpled satin.



I asked the BLM staff in Casper about these low hills.  After having me guess, "The wind? ... Ice age glaciers?" he pointed me to the Western Interior Seaway and its tidal actions.  Wow!  So I'm sitting on what was the seafloor imagining 59' plesiosaurs and mosasaurs gliding by above me! And down below a six foot clam.   Up above the surface,  pterodactyls flew around on wingspans over 30'.






In the afternoon I almost felt at sea as a squall brought wind and rain so intense I began wondering if it could topple my rig like a schooner in an ocean storm.  I understood how prairie schooners got their name!  These monsoonal dramas move in and on in under an hour, followed by rainbows and the sweet fragrance of sage.




The sun returns and the birds go berserk with ecstasy till sunset when the crickets take over the serenade.














Monday, July 1, 2019

Geology Alert — Possible Boredom Ahead



I’m a very amateur geology enthusiast - I love thinking and writing about it, but there are bound to be inaccuracies.  To me that doesn’t matter so much.  I love trying to figure out the story in deep time which led to the beauty in color, form and texture that we see today. So I’m writing this for my own pleasure. Come along if you like!

I'm writing here to think through the formation of the anticline from the last post. (editor's note: This got way too complex.  I won't do this again!)  It's made out of many layers of sedimentation accumulated over eons.  Picture a multi-colored layer cake.  Tectonic compression pushed the flat layers up, like a foot pushing a rug up into a fold.  It makes sense that the top of the fold would crack, allowing rain and ice to begin hollowing out the center into the valley we see today.   That created a 'breached anticline' or ' anticlinal valley.'  This photo shows one side of that valley.




The bottom layer was laid down in the Late Triassic - 205-210 millions years ago (that's 210,000,000!), when this area was the floodplain of a large river system (flat!) with small dinosaurs roaming and little mammals getting a start. The silts and muds, containing the iron that later oxidized into red (rusted!), were eventually covered with so much more earth that the weight compressed and heated them into siltstone and mudstone (fairly easy to erode when exposed later on).

This covering was aeolian, meaning sand dunes accumulated.  (These became the Entrada Sandstone that Georgia O’Keeffe loved to paint around Ghost Ranch -- a gorgeous area I'll describe in a later post.) This happened 180-140 MYA, during the Middle Jurassic, when the bigger dinosaurs were wandering over the sand.

Then the Jurassic Ocean moved northward with shallow extensions covering parts of New Mexico.



As it retreated it left land-locked water — a lake that slowly evaporated. Early on, marine organisms left their tiny shells to add a layer of limestone. As the lake continued to evaporate and its salts became more concentrated, they precipitated out, eventually hardening as a layer of gypsum. White Mesa (former post and below - the thin white against the distant mountains) was the result.

In a side note, those far mountains, the Sierra Nacimiento, are like bookends with the Sangre de Cristo Mountains above Santa Fe, forming the boundaries of the Rio Grande Rift Valley.


Back to the anticline: In the late Cretaceous (@93-125 MYA) The Western Interior Seaway had moved in (below). Apparently the downwarping that allowed this began with the Laramide Orogeny, when the tectonic plates beneath the Pacific pushed against then slid under the US continental plate.  This created compression in the interior, beginning to push up the modern Rockies (there were ancient Rockies, but they'd eroded away long before!). As they pushed up, the earth eastward warped downward, allowing the sea to flow in.  Many sorts of deposits are associated with this inland sea, resulting in a variety of types of deposits creating beautiful layers of gold, black, and orange-yellow shales, sand-, silt-, and mudstones.  



Later on, mineral springs deposited the whitish travertine that would be the capstone (or frosting on the cake) of the layers or beds built up over millions of years.  So picture this: Over vast periods of time, each layer of sedimentation is buried deeper and deeper by later accumulations.  The weight creates pressure and intense heat that cooks this layer cake of muds and sands into something that will hold together -- sedimentary stone.  (If it had been cooked longer and hotter, we'd have had metamorphic rocks like marble from limestone, slate from shale, and quartzite from sandstone).

This is all flat, but continuing compression buckled the area upward and our cake became a hill.  So the whitish travertine we see atop each ridge was originally connected across the entire hill, with all  those various layers beneath.  But travertine is naturally holy and the rains and ice that crept in gradually eroded out the center, leaving us with the anticlinal valley and all its fascinating beauty.














Thursday, June 20, 2019

The Red Skirted Valley (aka The San Ysidro Anticline)


One afternoon I happened upon a valley so stunning it took my breath away!


A couple of bike riders came along (this is also the White Ridge Bike Trails Area) and explained it’s an anticline visited by geology students from around the world...and only a half hour from our new home in Jemez Springs, NM!  This is where I began to fall in love with geology, and you may fall asleep.

Picture the white top layer as a continuous arch connecting with the white of the opposite side, with the red earth filling in beneath. This was at one time a solid elongated hill created when forces compressed an area and it popped up (slowly!) like when you push a rug with your foot. Then cracks along the top allowed water to begin eroding out the center so that, over a few eons, the hill’s center washed away, leaving unique beauty and a story in deep time.  (Google image)




The story continues on, though more slowly. The mound in the distance has many seeps where minerals precipitate from the water, building more mound. In the right foreground is a gorge where scant rains try to deepen the valley. I spent many wonderful days exploring all the nooks and crannies down in there. And from the Dragon’s Back you can see Cabezon Peak, a volcanic neck or plug, the hard basalt left after the earth around eroded away: 

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1q7ucPj2sC2VKyhFue_YNzcSmMFpnZZ5U

Beyond the anticline to the east is White Mesa. The second photo shows how it’s gypsum is being eaten away for wallboard!

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1l5bot6k1dgsXI-lXi72MwCKAuKqSoEi6

  https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=11S8Y4qWVrAUPAm7q-vic1Yh7VEBr0xv7

With the Sandias in the distance, above Albuquerque, 

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1W4klqU537-zjrsl7w58994vwEMUYzMMy

I strolled into the dusk. 

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=18NScXyGIIJl4rA6EqT1BI-g8nCAZ0v94